Battery and starting:
from the test to the replacement.
Everything that starts it, charges it, tests it and connects it. Every price on this page is read from the catalogues of the shops that deliver to your country and compared by our systems: what you see is the lowest we found, with the date we read it.
Where do you want to start?
Five ways in. Each one opens the shop that delivers in your country, already searching for that kind of product.
A new batteryThe one that goes in the car — by size, by capacity, by cold cranking amps.Open this department ›
Jump starters & booster cablesEnough current to turn the engine once more, this morning.Open this department ›
Chargers & maintainersHours, not minutes: what actually gives a flat battery back.Open this department ›
Testers & diagnosisTen seconds to know whether it is the battery or the alternator.Open this department ›
Terminals, clamps & cablesThe part that corrodes, and the one that carries the current.Open this department ›Jump starters and booster cables
Enough current to turn the engine once more, this morning.
Jump Starter, 1500A Peak, Car Jumper Starter Battery Pack, 12V Portable Lithium Battery Booster, Jump Box Power Bank wit
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1500A Car Battery Jump Starter for Up to 7.0L Gas & 5.5L Diesel Engines 12V Portable Jump Start Booster Pack Jump Box wi
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RJ21 2-in-1 Jump Starter and 150 PSI Tire Inflator, 7200mAh Power Bank and LED Flashlight
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70mai Jump Starter Max PS06
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Type S 12V 6.0L Battery Jump Starter with Qi Wireless Charging JumpGuide and 8,000 mAh Power Bank Black AC530013-1
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Type S Mike Power 8000mAh Wireless Jump Starter with Built-in Cable with USB-C Cable AC533654-1
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Chargers and maintainers
Hours, not minutes: this is what gives a flat battery back.
12V 20A Lithium Battery Charger, 14.6V, AC-DC LiFePO4 Smart Charger, with Anderson Connector, LED Indicator, 0V Activati
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12V 20A DC to DC Battery Charger, 250W, On-Board Battery Charger for Lead-Acid, Lithium, AGM, GEL, and Flooded Batteries
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12V 40A DC to DC Battery Charger, 500W, On-Board Battery Charger for Lead-Acid, Lithium, AGM, GEL, and Flooded Batteries
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Marine Battery Charger, 2-Bank, 10A 12V Onboard Boat Charger, IP68 Waterproof Smart On-Board Battery Charger, for Lithiu
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Wheeled Battery Charger 6V/12V 40A/200A Car Charger Engine Starter, Heavy Duty Automotive Car Battery Maintainer, Fully
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12V 80A Lithium Battery Charger, 14.6V, AC-DC LiFePO4 Smart Charger, with Anderson Connector, LED Indicator, 0V Activati
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Before you replace it
Four things that decide whether you need a battery at all. They cost nothing to read and they save the price of one.
How to tell the battery from the alternator
A healthy battery rests at 12.6 V with the engine off and everything switched off for an hour. Under 12.2 V it is half flat; under 11.8 V it has a dead cell and no charger will bring it back.
Start the engine and read again: the alternator should hold 13.8 to 14.4 V. If it does not, you are about to replace a battery that was never the problem.
AGM or EFB: which battery your car needs
A car that switches the engine off at the lights carries an AGM or EFB battery: it is built to be discharged and refilled dozens of times a day. A conventional one in its place lasts a single winter.
The same goes for the charger: without an AGM setting it pushes the wrong voltage and dries the cells. Read the label on the top of the battery before you buy either.
A jump pack and a charger are not the same tool
They are two different tools and using one for the other ruins the battery. A jump pack delivers a few hundred amps for three seconds: it starts the car and nothing else. A charger works for six or eight hours at two or three amps and is the only thing that actually refills the cells.
A car started with a pack and then driven for twenty minutes is still flat: the alternator replaces what the starter took, not what the winter took.
Before you replace it, check the terminals
White or blue powder on the posts is sulphation: it works as an insulator, and the starter sees a flat battery where there is a good one. A brush, a spanner and five minutes rule it out for free.
Tighten the clamp with the nut, never by hammering it onto the post: the lead deforms, the contact surface drops and the same fault comes back in a month.
Find a workshop near you
Registering a start-stop battery, or chasing a drain that flattens it overnight, needs a tool you will not buy once. This is where to look.
This space is for the businesses that choose TroubleAtlas: workshops, garages and auto electricians appear to people looking for help in their city.
Where to go next
Tyre department
Your size at today’s lowest price, from the shops that deliver to you.
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Tuning department
Ride height, power, exhaust and body: real prices and what the law allows.
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Accessories department
Tow bars, roof bars and boxes, bike carriers, floor mats and snow chains.
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Tools department
Jacks and axle stands, torque wrenches and diagnostic tools.
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Spare parts department
The part you need for the repair: brakes, filters, suspension, headlights.
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The vehicle database
What breaks on your model, with the manufacturers’ own codes.
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The TroubleAtlas channel
Brand comparisons and hands-on tests, in five minutes.
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Our seal, and how we award it.
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Back to the shop
The other departments: tyres, tuning, tools, accessories.
Go to the door ›Questions
How long should a car battery last?
Four to five years on a car used daily; two to three on one that does short trips or sits for weeks. Heat kills more batteries than cold does — the winter morning only reveals what the summer already did.
Do I need a new battery, or just a charge?
Charge it fully first, leave it an hour, then measure. If it rests at 12.6 V and holds the engine over, it was flat, not dead. If it falls back under 12.2 V by itself, it will not hold a charge again.
Can I change it myself?
On most cars, yes: negative off first, positive off second, and the reverse to refit. On a car with start-stop the new battery has to be registered with the charging system, or it is charged as if it were the old one and lasts half as long. That part needs a workshop tool.
What do Ah and A mean on the label?
Ah is how much it holds — how long it runs the lights with the engine off. A (or CCA) is how hard it can push at −18 °C, which is what actually starts the engine. Replace like for like or go up, never down.
Do you sell batteries?
No. We compare what the shops are asking and send you to the one that delivers in your country. If you buy, that shop pays us a share: it costs you nothing more.
Prices read from the shops’ catalogues on 24/10/2026. Delivery, duty and import VAT are added by the shop at checkout.